Edinburgh
3/29/15
Saturday was our last day in Scotland.
After our last breakfast at Pep & Fodder, we walked to yet another cemetery. This time, we were in search of Adam Smith's grave. After wandering for quite some time, Gabbi found it. And the gate was unlocked, so we stepped in. We flailed our arms a little (it's got to be a historian thing, they just have a mind of their own when I get around anything significant) and then took a bunch of pictures, before someone from the cemetery came and asked if we had a key to the gate, since it's apparently usually locked. I wondered what made him think the two American girls would have a key to ADAM SMITH'S GRAVE. We finished our photo shoot, and promptly had another one with the Robert Ferguson statue just outside.
After our last breakfast at Pep & Fodder, we walked to yet another cemetery. This time, we were in search of Adam Smith's grave. After wandering for quite some time, Gabbi found it. And the gate was unlocked, so we stepped in. We flailed our arms a little (it's got to be a historian thing, they just have a mind of their own when I get around anything significant) and then took a bunch of pictures, before someone from the cemetery came and asked if we had a key to the gate, since it's apparently usually locked. I wondered what made him think the two American girls would have a key to ADAM SMITH'S GRAVE. We finished our photo shoot, and promptly had another one with the Robert Ferguson statue just outside.
Then, we took the plunge. Actually, it's kind of the exact opposite. We hiked Arthur's Seat.
The hills were bright green and there were dogs running around and it was only slightly grey outside. There were several different paths and little pit stops along the way to take pictures, and explore this little outlook, and just to rest. The path was pretty slick and rocky, but we made it! And it was GORGEOUS. Totally worth the sore knees on the way down. Afterward, as we looked up at the top, Gabbi turned to me and said "WE WERE RIGHT THERE!"
We decided that was enough exercise, and headed to the base of the hills and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen's house in Scotland. The first thing we did was down a bottle of water, and then paid our admission. All of the interior was led via audio tour, and probably the best audio tour I've ever had, which is especially great since I generally hate them. The building was stunning with tapestries and portraits galore (I counted 5 of Charles II, also cuff links with his blood in them). There was the dining room, the throne room, the king's bedchamber all on the way to my favorite portion: Mary, Queen of Scots chambers.
It was another of those flailing arms moments. The bed itself and the ceiling were stunning. There was a little room off to the side where David Rizzio was killed by Mary's husband. The next room had a lock of her hair, cards from her son, pieces of jewelry, the niche where she prayed. I was in heaven.
Outside the castle we walked through Holyrood Abbey and very, very briefly in the gardens.
We left the palace, and were greeted with a protest outside. Lovely.
After another round of shopping, I pulled out my Brave self again. I ate haggis. I actually really liked it. These pictures could not be less flattering, but they perfectly encapsulate how I felt taking the first bite.
I promise I liked it. I finished the whole plate, and then tried not to think about it too much. But I'd eat it again.
We headed back for an early night to catch our flight home the next morning. Oh! We did go upstairs and see the door to the JK Rowling suite. The door knocker is an owl! I touched the handle that she touched.
After about sixteen hours of travel, I was back in Virginia and dead tired. My friend Jessica picked me up from the airport, took me home for dinner (something I couldn't be more grateful for, so THANK YOU, JESSICA!), and then I fell into bed at about 7 pm.
There were lots of random favorites along the way, too:
That one Starbucks that actually felt like an eighteenth-century coffeehouse where we stopped everyday for hot chocolate and WiFi
Pep and Fodder
Snatch it -- a ridiculously fun version of bananagrams
MasterChef
Gogglebox
hotel slippers and "Good Morning" towels
Miss Katie Cupcake's jewelry shop
That glorious bathroom and shower.
The two-pound coin
And ginger snaps.
The trip was amazing. Incredible. I cannot wait until the next time I get to do something like that again. Best impulsive decision ever. When Gabbi texted me in December asking if I wanted to go Scotland for spring break, I laughed out loud. I almost said no. Instead, I bought a plane ticket. I am so glad I said yes. I am so glad that she asked me to come (THANK YOU, GABBI!). We had the best time. I'd do it again in a heartbeat (well, once I save some money).
It was the first actual stamp in my passport, and I will always be grateful for it.
3/28/15
The third day was probably the longest, but also my favorite. We decided to start the furthest location from the hotel and work our way home throughout the day. After breakfast, we decided to start with Edinburgh Castle.
On the way, we stopped by Greyfriar's Kirkyard to see if we could find the grave that inspired JK Rowling's Tom Riddle. We didn't find it. Apparently it's actually "Thomas Riddell." BUT, we did stumble upon the cafe where she used to write.
The castle was spectacular. We opted out of the guided tour and wandered around ourselves. It's kind of amazing being in a building that old (I touched a wall that was built in the 12th century and almost lost it). There are several museums for the military, as well as the National War Memorial and the Scottish Crown Jewels.
I forced us to go into the prison . . . even though it was totally creepy. And all of the recordings of prisoners were French or American. Clearly, we belonged there. They had few of the prison doors on display. It was only going back through my pictures when I realized how many pictures I took of them. The views from the castle were just stunning. It was one of my favorite things we did.
After the castle, we meandered down the Royal Mile to the Writer's Museum. In honor of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson, the museum was tucked back on one of the side streets. It was small, but so well done. We chatted for a few minutes with one of the workers about the inspiration behind Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde (Deacon Brodie. Google him; it's a pretty crazy story) before wandering around the museum.
After the museum, we did a little bit of shopping and stopped for food before touring Mary King's Close. It's street that's now underground, but used to house hundreds of people in the seventeenth century. The tour itself was pretty kitschy (the kind with talking photographs, ya know?) but getting to walk in the spaces gave me a whole new understanding of when my teachers talked about overcrowding in European cities.
On the way, we stopped by Greyfriar's Kirkyard to see if we could find the grave that inspired JK Rowling's Tom Riddle. We didn't find it. Apparently it's actually "Thomas Riddell." BUT, we did stumble upon the cafe where she used to write.
The castle was spectacular. We opted out of the guided tour and wandered around ourselves. It's kind of amazing being in a building that old (I touched a wall that was built in the 12th century and almost lost it). There are several museums for the military, as well as the National War Memorial and the Scottish Crown Jewels.
I forced us to go into the prison . . . even though it was totally creepy. And all of the recordings of prisoners were French or American. Clearly, we belonged there. They had few of the prison doors on display. It was only going back through my pictures when I realized how many pictures I took of them. The views from the castle were just stunning. It was one of my favorite things we did.
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| On a door from 1781 |
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| ^^ The backside of the castle from the street below ^^ |
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| ^^^ ROBERT BURNS'S STOOL FOR HIS WRITING DESK. THE DESK IS ABOVE. ^^^ |
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| A sculpture of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde cute from the book. Also, that nook was too good not to take a picture. |
We ended the evening back at the cathedral for a program called Son et Lumiere. I couldn't take pictures, but the whole cathedral was dark, lit primarily by candles. The program started and two flutists played a piece, and then paused. The lighting changed, several minutes of silence, and then they played again. This pattern continued for a couple hours. I recognized several of the pieces: Pachelbel's Canon, Somewhere Over the Rainbow, something by Mendelssohn of which I can't remember the name. They ended with Auld Lang Syne. I liked it best when all of the lights were out and it was only the candlelight. The cathedral was cold, but absolutely beautiful.
That night might be my favorite part of the entire trip. It was just beautiful and moving and a quite moment to think and consider and pray. I did pray, right there in my chair and it was sweet. So sweet.
That evening was not without interruption. The two ladies next to us were talking quite loudly. We could hear someone singing Adele songs on the sidewalk outside, and every heel click echoed throughout the whole thing. But I still loved every minute. In fact, we were two of about five people who stayed until the whole thing was completed. I left feeling really grateful we had decided to come back for it.
That night might be my favorite part of the entire trip. It was just beautiful and moving and a quite moment to think and consider and pray. I did pray, right there in my chair and it was sweet. So sweet.
That evening was not without interruption. The two ladies next to us were talking quite loudly. We could hear someone singing Adele songs on the sidewalk outside, and every heel click echoed throughout the whole thing. But I still loved every minute. In fact, we were two of about five people who stayed until the whole thing was completed. I left feeling really grateful we had decided to come back for it.
3/21/15
Gabbi and I made a deal from the beginning that we would sleep in. Luckily for both of us...that meant about 8 o'clock. We found a little cafe called Pep and Fodder right near our hotel, and ended up going there every day for breakfast.
On the way down from the mound, I saw my first bagpiper. And I kinda fell in love. Also, the gorgeous Gabbi and the view from our hotel room window.
We stopped for a hot chocolate and then to St. Giles Cathedral.
It was stunning. There was a choir singing, and I sat for a while to just listen. The architecture was incredible. It was amazing to walk through something out of my art history textbooks, and I found myself smiling as I walked through the space. I lit a candle and said a prayer.
From there, we headed to the National Museum to meet up with a friend...that neither of us had actually met. Gabbi knows a boy from London, and his sister is a student in Edinburgh. We met up with her for lunch and then walked to her apartment for tea (water) and conversation. It was actually kind of amazing. The whole time, I couldn't help but think, "am I really going to a stranger's house in a foreign country?" Yep, I did. And loved it. Her friends were a RIOT. So much fun and so many crazy personalities. Also, a fair amount of slang that I didn't understand. But overall, a really pleasant evening and I smiled the whole time.
That night, it poured. We got so soaked on the walk back, that eventually we gave up and hailed a taxi. It didn't matter (remember, we had that glorious shower).
We fell into bed exhausted, but very happy.
Yes, that is Abraham Lincoln. In the middle of a Scottish cemetery and right next to David Hume's mausoleum. Kind of amazing and also absolutely ridiculous. Strange.
We walked up "the mound" for a view of the city, and ended up people watching a hoard of school children speaking Spanish and wielding selfie sticks. The view was actually quite amazing. I'm refraining from posting about 12 panorama shots.
We stopped for a hot chocolate and then to St. Giles Cathedral.
It was stunning. There was a choir singing, and I sat for a while to just listen. The architecture was incredible. It was amazing to walk through something out of my art history textbooks, and I found myself smiling as I walked through the space. I lit a candle and said a prayer.
From there, we headed to the National Museum to meet up with a friend...that neither of us had actually met. Gabbi knows a boy from London, and his sister is a student in Edinburgh. We met up with her for lunch and then walked to her apartment for tea (water) and conversation. It was actually kind of amazing. The whole time, I couldn't help but think, "am I really going to a stranger's house in a foreign country?" Yep, I did. And loved it. Her friends were a RIOT. So much fun and so many crazy personalities. Also, a fair amount of slang that I didn't understand. But overall, a really pleasant evening and I smiled the whole time.
That night, it poured. We got so soaked on the walk back, that eventually we gave up and hailed a taxi. It didn't matter (remember, we had that glorious shower).
We fell into bed exhausted, but very happy.
3/20/15
I spent last week in Edinburgh, Scotland for spring break. BEST. TRIP. EVER.
It was my first experience in Europe, and I was in heaven. As the blog functions for me like a journal in a lot of ways (you know, mixed in with a whole lot of enthusiasm), I'm excited to share my trip.
I went with my friend Gabbi, and we'd been planning the trip since December. In the days leading up to it, I got increasingly nervous. I've always been pretty type A and the prospect of doing something I'd never done was pretty daunting. The first glitch happened in the airport, when our flight was delayed and we had to make some changes, flying through London instead of through Newark (no complaints here, thank you). The flight was essentially empty, so I stretched out and slept the whole way.
By the time we reached Edinburgh, it was about 11 in the morning and I was still pretty exhausted. We caught the train into town and checked into our hotel with the help of a very attractive Scottish man.
The first thing we did: take a nap.
The first thing we did: take a nap.
We stayed at the Balmoral, and let me tell you that hotel is glorious. The softest pillows. The comfiest beds. The heated tiles in the bathroom. The heated towel rack. The shower. THE SHOWER. Even the stationary was beautiful. We didn't realize it until the last night, but the suite directly above our room was the JK ROWLING SUITE. Like, where she stayed when she finished the last book!!!
Amazing. Absolutely amazing.
Amazing. Absolutely amazing.
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| Image found here. I can't believe I didn't take a picture of my own! This is what the room looked like...minus the gold pillows. |
Alright, back to complete sentences.
After our little nap, it was still early in the afternoon, so we walked down to the National Gallery. I should tell you that Gabbles and I can spend a lot of time in a museum, and this was no exception. Cue an excessive amount of artwork.
The piece on the bottom left is William Dyce's Man of Sorrows. It's one of my very favorite pieces. When I was in my 19th century art class at BYU, I wrote my final paper on that piece. Stumbling upon it in the Scottish art section was a really special moment for me. It felt like a friend, just waiting to say hello.
After the museum, we walked to find a place for dinner, when I snapped this shot. It's one of my favorites. The building with the clock is our hotel.
It's kinda crazy, because as soon as we were there, all of my fears went away, and I was at ease. It took less than a day, and I was completely obsessed with this city.
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| A lobster, Lord Dunmore, Rembrandt's self portrait, and a genre painting |
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| Constable, Rodin, Dyce, and Courbet. |
After the museum, we walked to find a place for dinner, when I snapped this shot. It's one of my favorites. The building with the clock is our hotel.
It's kinda crazy, because as soon as we were there, all of my fears went away, and I was at ease. It took less than a day, and I was completely obsessed with this city.
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